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GREENING'S TWENTIETH CENTURY 

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By CHARLES E. GREENING 



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Chas. E. Greening 



CHAPTER 1. 
S 


— Treatise on Transplanting, 1 
oil Preparation, Pruning, £ic. ■ 


CHAPTER 2.— Treatise on 
in^ of the Ore 


Care and Prun- 
bard 


CHAPTER 3. 


— Treatise on 


Marketing Fruit 


CHAPTER 4.— Treatise on 
Surroundings 


Beautifying the 
of the Home . . 


CHAPTER 3.— Treatise on Tree Insects 1 



Published by 

The Greening Bros. Nursery Company, Monroe, Mich. 



Copyrighted 1904 



AMJE«F,CA'S GREATEST NURSERIES. 

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PRICE 30 CENTS 




GREENIIVG BROS,' HUMBLE BEGINNING IN 1S83. 

As poor boys we started our modest beginning in 1883. We lacked money, experience, knowledge 
and education. We had an inheritance of honesty, uprightness, energy, alertness, and a willingness 
to learn and work, and above all a profound confidence in our ability. We think our achievements 
show a wonderful possibility "to win in open competition." 



To Our Patrons and the Public: 



We are almost daily besieged with questions relating to Planting, Pruning, 
Cultivation, Soil, Spraying, Gathering, Marketing, Planting the Lawn, Trees, Plants, 

etc. Inquiries have been constantly increasing from year to year in the progress 
of our business until, finally, we are brought face to face with the problem of pre- 
paring a work which will cover the questions usually asked. To furnish this in- 
formation in a concise and convenient form, the author has prepared with much care 
this work, entitled "Greening's 20th Century Fruit Growers' and Landscapers' Guide." 
The information herein contained is gathered from a life-long experience in nursery 
work and fruit growing and can be referred to with utmost confidence. In the 
preparation of this "Treatise" the writer has been guided largely by his own personal 
experience and knowledge, and the information gathered in becoming associated with 
prominent horticulturists while giving lectures on topics relating to horticulture. 
It is written in the plainest of language, so that any person of ordinary intelligence 
can read and thoroughly understand it. We believe that no apology is due for the use 
of so many pictures, which are not only very beautiful, but which also furnish ma- 
terial for study to any one interested in horticulture. 

FOR THE OVERWORKED BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL MAN, for 
people living in crowded cities, and for all who need nature's remedies to build up 
a broken-down constitution, nothing ofifers more real health-giving enjoyment, recre- 
ation and fun than a country home, lined and dotted with beautiful trees and 
shrubbery; an orchard or a garden of choice fruits — the food of God's own giving — 
the free use of ripe, fresh fruits; a stroll out in the open air among the trees, 
where nature's alteratives and sedatives are abundantly supplied. To those, this 
book will be a welcome guest in its handy and condensed form. 

FOR FRUIT GROWERS AND FARMERS this book will lead the way to 
success in fruit growing, and spare them much worry when in need of advice. It 
will save them many costly experiments, and will help to increase their profits. The 
latest methods and practical ideas are brought out; many practical and useful hints 
are presented, boiled down to occupy the least possible space, for busy people to 
read. 

The Greening Bros. Nursery Co., Monroe, Mich. 

NURSERYMEN. FRUIT GROWERS.; HOKHGUtTtlfclSTS, PUBLISHERS. 



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Greening* s 20th Century Fruit Groioers* and Landscapers* Guide* 1 











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A MODEL ORCHARD OF GREENING'S TREES. 

Mr. Henry Flater, of Findlay, Ohio, is the proud possessor of the orchard above shown. It was 
planted in 1898, and consists of rows of apple trees with peaches planted in between. Attention is 
called to the almost perfect form of the trees, a result of pruning from the beginning under our system 
explained in our "Treatise on Orcharding." All of the trees in the orchard are from our nursery. 
Notice the splendid system of pruning and heading-in for a well-balanced crown and substantial frame- 
work of the branches to carry a heavy crop of fruit.- 



r Greening's Twentieth Century 

L Fruit Growers' and Landscapers' Guide J 
By CHARLES E. GREENING -^jj 



Chapter 
One 



TREATISE ON TRANSPLANTING, ^ 
■'■ SOIL PREPARATION, PRUNING. &c jgj 



Preparation of Soil 
Before Planting 



In the preparation of soil for an orchard, let 
us first giA^e attention to improving the condition 
of the soil. In the first place, let it be put down 
as a settled fact that stable manure is the only all- 
round and most perfect fertilizer that can be 
" found. It should be applied freely and turned 
under before planting. A green crop turned under, such as peas, corn, buckwheat, 
cow-peas or clover, will be found of inestimable benefit. Soils rich in plant food, 
such as new land, old meadows or pasture lands, require little if any manure at 
planting time; such lands should, if possible, be planted to hoed crops the year 
before. The orchard being planted for a lifetime, care in preparing the soil and 
selecting land adapted for the purpose should not be overlooked. Work the land 
deep and thoroughly before planting. If in a yard where a plow cannot be used, 
have the ground spaded deep for several feet around, and mix in with the soil some 
thoroughly rotted manure. Drainage on wet soils is necessary; orchard trees will 
not thrive on wet lands. 

In the matter of selecting a site for one or 

more kinds of fruit, the question of soil and loca- 
tion is of prime importance. An elevated location 
having good surface and air drainage is in most 
instances preferable to level lands. Underdrain- 
age on level lands is necessary for good results, 
and makes the soil loose, fertile and warm. It is a mistake to plant fruit on low, 
wet lands. Apples, peaches, plums, quinces and cherries succeed best on a gravelly 
or light soil, while pears and grapes will do best on heavy soil. 



I 



Selecting a Site 
JS'f or an OrchardJ^ 



Fruit \is nature's medicine — It will cure all ills except laziness. 



Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groivers^ and Landscavers^ Guide. 



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GREENING'S SILVER MAPLE AVENUE. 

In our untiring ambition and passionate desire to improve and beautify our surroundings, we have 
not overlooked the public highway, and have paid out thousands of dollars for the improvement 
of the roads leading from the nursery to the city. About one mile of macadamized road, consisting of 
eighteen inches thickness of crushed stone, is largely the creation of our purse and enterprise. This 
avenue shown in the picture is the pride of the nursery. We do not know of a tree better adapted 
tor roadside planting than the Silver Maple, if headed in occasionally while young. 



Varieties 
to Plant 



1 



The selection of varieties is very important. 

Mistakes in selecting varieties have been made 

by the best and most experienced fruit growers. 

It is well to observe and profit by the experience 
"" ^ of others. With most varieties it is purely a 

question of locality and soil. Experience in many 
things is the best teacher. We must make use of the experience of others, who 
have gone over the road and paid the bills for such experience. In planting an or- 
chard for market, it is well to consult for advice those who have experience and 
knowledge, observing carefully the success and failure of varieties fruiting in your 
vicinity. It is also well to consult a reliable nurseryman, and in this connection we 
cheerfully offer our services. Our extensive Experimental Orchards, our wide range 
of experience and knowledge in growing fruit for market, enable us to give good 
advice to planters. We will answer all questions in this respect honestly and fairly. 
Planters may consult us with the utmost confidence. 



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The Best Trees 
^ to Plant i 



1 



The best trees to plant, irrespective of cli- 
mate and location, are such as are grown in a 
cool and temperate climate. The great State of 
Michigan is noted far and wide for its cool, mod- 
"* -^ erate and healthy summer climate, making it the 

most popular health resort of the Northern 
States; also for its great fruit growing industry. Being surrounded on three sides 
by the waters of the great lakeS; it has the most favorable climatic conditions for 
the growing of hardy and healthy nursery stock. Trees grown in this climate are 
hardier and better adapted for transplanting than those grown in milder climates, 
and will make lasting and profitable orchards. 

It is sharper than a serpent's tooth to have a thankless child, 



Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, 





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A CHARMING SCENE. 

This photograph presents a scene of beauty such as is seldom seen. A section of our parks, show- 
ing fine Norway Spruce and Arbor Vitse hedges, graceful and well kept driveways, Norway maples, 
groups of hardy flowering shrubbery, etc. These improvements will appeal to every owner of a home. 



Distances for Planting 



Apples 30 to 35 feet apart. 

Pears, Standard. .. 16 to 20 feet apart. 

Pears, Dwarf 12 to 16 feet apart. 

Cherries 16 to 20 feet apart. 

Plums 16 to 20 feet apart. 

Peaches 16 to 20 feet apart. 

Quinces 12 to 16 feet apart. 

Apricots 16 to 20 feet apart. 



Grapes 8 feet apart. 



Gooseberries 4 to 6 

Currants 4 to 6 

Raspberries, Red.... 2 x 7 
Raspberries, Black.. 3 x 7 

Blackberries 3 y^ 7 

Strawberries 1x4 



feet apart, 
feet apart, 
feet apart, 
feet apart, 
feet apart, 
feet apart. 



Number of Trees and Plants to an Acre 



At 4 feet apart each way 2723 

At S feet apart each way 1742 

At 6 feet apart each way 1210 

At 8 feet apart each way 681 

At 10 feet apart each way 435 

At 12 feet apart each way 302 




At 16 feet apart each way 170 

At 18 feet apart each way 134 

At 20 feet apart each way 109 

At 25 feet apart each way 70 

At 30 feet apart each way 50 

At 33 feet apart each way 40 

Immediately after receiving your trees or 
plants from the nursery, moisten thoroughly and 
wrap or cover to prevent drying out. Bring them 
home at once and heel in without delay. Cover 
all the roots good and deep and moisten the soil 
if necessary. Strawberries, raspberries and black- 
berries should be kept in cellar well dampened until ready to plant. Do not permit 
the stock to become injured by exposure at any time before planting. 

The roots of trees, grapevines, gooseberries 
and currants should be carefully pruned before 
planting. Use a sharp knife and remove all the 
broken and bruised roots. Cut back all roots 

_^ from the under side, leaving roots from six to 

ten inches in length. With most of our orna- 
mental trees, and especially evergreens, as little root area should be cut away as 
practicable. 

It is sharper still to have no Winter Bananas to eat. 



M Root Pruning -^ 
Before Planting 



=^ 



Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Grotoers^ and Landscapers*^ Guide, 




GREENING'S FORMAL HORTICULTURAL GARDENS. 

These gardens represent a perfect dream of beauty and elegance. They are the admiration of the 
most fastidious visitor, the ideal of the beautiful in tree, lawn, shrub, hedge, etc. The artistic arrange- 
ment of grounds and buildings, beautiful parks, handsome avenues, fine driveways and walks, our 
excellent system of waterworks, and numerous other things to be seen at the nursery, give an impressive 
example of what human energy and American spirit may accomplish in the course of a few years. 
These gardens mark the place where only a few years ago was a wet ravine with rail fences, burdocks, 
and a wild undergrowth of brush. It required thousands of loads of good soil and much thought and 
expense to resurrect it from a wilderness to its present condition. 

^ ^ The work of pruning the tops of trees may 

be done either before or after planting. If done 
after planting, care should be exercised not to 
loosen the trees in the ground. We advise top 
pruning of grapes and small fruits after planting. 
Pruning Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry. 
Prune off all branches except the upper three or four; these cut back to spurs about 
six inches in length. Good judgment is necessary in selecting branches for the 
crown, such as will form an evenly balanced head. 

Pruning Peach Trees. Cut back the entire top to three feet from the ground 
after being planted; prune off all branches, leaving four or five spurs of about two 
inches at the top. In other_words, trim to a straight whip with a few spurs at 



Crown Prunio^ at 
Planting Time 



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the top, two inches long, 
inches lower. 



Peach trees of smaller grades should be headed six 





A wooden square is made out of 
fence boards eight feet long, 
dressed and perfectly straight, and 
these are nailed so as to form a 
true triangle. No matter what the 
shape of the field is, always begin 
staking out on a true square, and 
for this purpose the planting 
square will be of excellent service. 
By sighting across the field over 
_^ the stakes on the planting square, 

a perfect square of the orchard is 
obtained. 



The classical garden is governed by special laws of harmony and rhythm. 



Greenin g^ s 20th Century Fruit G roovers' and Landscapers^ Guide, 




GROUP OF NORWAY MAPJLES — (Greenlni^r's Park.) 

■ Among the beauties of our grounds are a cluster of^ Norway Maples, planted near the residence 
of C. E. Greening, for shade. A charming place under these trees of perfect form and elegance, 
where through its leaves you may scan nature's canopy in rapt tranquility. 



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Staking Out the 
^ Orchard -^ 



After the field has been squared up and 
stakes placed at each corner of the field, stretch 
a rope or strong wire from stake to stake around 
the outside, staking the distances the trees are to 

'^ "^ be planted along the wire, and proceed in this 

way until you get around the field. The wire line 
is the most practical, as it will not stretch. The most practical way of using the 
wire line is to have a rim soldered at such distances apart as it is desired to plant, 
all along the wire, and in staking out, drive a stake exactly at each rim. 



Heeling In Before 
Planting 



Dig a trench fifteen to eighteen inches deep, 
loosen the lower band of a bundle, wet the trees 
thoroughly, place them into the trench and cover 
carefully, pressing the ground down with the foot. 
"* '^ Trees which are received in the fall for spring 

planting, should be heeled in during the winter 
eighteen inches deep, placing the trees at an angle of forty-five degrees, opening up 
the bundles and being careful to fill the soil well in among the roots. The 
trees thus heeled in should be well banked up over winter and planted out early in 
the spring. For heeling in over winter select a place where water will not stand, 
away from buildings and meadows, out in the open field, where mice will not injure 
them. Heeling in over winter applies to tender trees and plants, especially peach 
trees. At least two-thirds of the bodies should be covered. Cover trees after heeling 
in, with evergreen boughs if obtainable. Some fruit growers prefer fall ship- 
ment, and heeling in over winter; the advantage claimed is in having the stock for 
very early spring planting. We recommend spring delivery and planting, because 
we can guarantee to bring the trees to the planter as early in spring as it is 
advisable to plant. 

An orchard without Banana apples is like a Yankee dinner without pie — incomplete^ 



6 Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groiutrs* and Landscapers^ Guide, 









m 





A BLOCK OF BANNER PEACH TREES. 

Here we show a block of peach trees, representing five ' months' growth from bud, of salable 
size, all pruned up ready to be dug with the steam digger. In this climate peach trees make a strong, 
hardy, healthy growth, and ripen up their wood early in the fall. Insects and fungous diseases on 
peach trees are things unknown in this locality. The most scrupulous attention is given the varieties 
so as to have them pure and true to name. A new method of pruning has a tendency to make the 
body smooth and symmetrical; all have straight leaders and in this respect are above comparison with 
Eastern or Southern grown peach trees, which are frequently very forked, crooked and knotty. The 
trees shown are of the Banner variety, a peach ripening after Late Crawford, and which has very 
superior qualities over other late ripening varieties. See colored illustration and description. 



I The Planting Board] 




This is a board six inches wide and about five 
feet long, notched as shown on the picture. The 
purpose of the planting board is to prevent the 
orchard from being planted out of square. 
In digging the hole place the board at the middle 
notch against the stake, and drive small stakes in 
end notches as shown in Fig. I. Next remove 
board and dig the hole, leaving end stakes in 
place, Fig. 2. After the hole is completed replace 
the board in two end stakes, placing the stake in 
position as shown in Fig. 3. The idea in using 
this device is to get the stake exactly in the place 
where it stood before digging the hole. In plant 
ing, set trees close against the stake, and always 
on the same side of the stake throughout the 
field, and your orchard will be perfectly straight 
in every direction. 



1 Planting the Trees 



After the soil is. well prepared, a hole should 
be dug large enough to admit the roots in their 
natural position, say two feet square and twenty 
inches deep. The earth to fill in and about the 
roots should be well pulverized; then fill the hole 
with loose earth so as to bring the tree about an 
inch lower than it stood in the nursery; place the tree in position, fill in fine mellow 
soil between and around the roots with the hand, arranging all the roots in their 

A hedge as a boundary for a garden is very appropriate. 



Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, 




BLOCK OP WHOL,E-ROOT TWO-YEAR-OLD CHERRY TREES. 

Constantly having in mind the growing of the best that the judicious expenditure of time and 
money can bring fortli, we have given some attention to the study of fruit tree seedlings used in our 
business for propagating. As a result of our experiment, we have selected from among the various 
species of cherry seedlings the "Mahaleb," noted for its hardiness, vigor of growth and strong fruiting 
power. In the illustration above will be noticed a strong, thrifty growth, such as is rarely seen in a 
nursery. Whole-root Mahaleb seedlings of strong caliber were used in this block. The soil is a heavy 
black loam, underlaid with a porous clay subsoil, very rich, thoroughly underdrained, and eminently 
adapted for growing trees. This is supplemented by a perfect system of spraying for the prevention 
of any possible fungus and the destruction of insects. Can there be any doubt as to our ability to 
grow good trees under such circumstances ? 



Planting 
J& Grape Vines ^ 



natural position and packing the soil carefully around them. Fill to the top and press 
down the earth around the tree with the foot; throw a bucket of water around each 
tree to settle the ground, and scatter a little soil on top to prevent baking. Spring 
Planting — Level the soil around the tree after spring planting. Fall Planting — Bank 
up against the tree after fall planting, and remove to a level in spring. Mulching, 
with a covering of straw manure or leaf mould after planting, is highly beneficial 
and will often save the tree in dry seasons. Dwarf Pear should be planted four or 
five inches deeper than they stood in the nursery. 

Plant 8x8 feet apart for trellis and 6x8 feet 
for stake culture. Dig holes same as for trees. 
Place the vine in the hole so that the first 
bud next to the stem will come on a level with 
the surface; spread the lower layer of roots in 
their natural position, fill in the earth and press 
down the soil firmly with the foot; then spread the second layer of roots, fill in the 
balance of the hole and press gently with foot. After planting trim the vine back 
to two buds. A strong stake four feet long should be driven in at each vine to 
support the canes the first two years. 

The soil should be mellow and rich. Plant 
Red Raspberries 2x7 feet apart; Black Raspber- 
ries, Blackberries, Dewberries, 3x7 feet apart. 
Conrath and Columbian Raspberries, on account 
of their vigor of growth, ' should be planted 
^— ^ 4x8 feet apart; Currants and Gooseberries, 4x6 

feet apart; Strawberries for field culture, 1x4 feet, and for garden, 2 feet apart. Plant 
small fruits about one inch deeper than they stood in the nursery, except strawber- 
ries, which should be planted so as to leave the crown even with the surface — too 
deep planting will smother the plant. Spread the roots, in planting small fruits, as 
much as possible, and press the earth over the roots firmly with the. hand. If planted 
in the fall, cover with coarse straw manure to prevent the plants from being heaved 
out during the winter. After planting, cut back the tops to four to five inches from 
the ground. 

The pleasures of gardening are infinite and varied. 



Planting 
Small Fruits J^ 



8 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivzrs* and Landscapers' Guide, 





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THE STABLES. 

These buildings embody every convenience of a first-class stable. There are separate apartments 
for carriages, automobiles, harnesses, etc. A well bred stock of horses is kept. Gas and water is 
supplied by our own plant. Conspicuous in the picture is the attractive front. Fine beds of hardy 
flowering shrubbery are planted up against the buildings, which gives a very fine effect during the sum- 
mer months. The main entrance to the nursery grounds is sliown herewith, laterals leading oflf in 
different directions. All of our driveways and roadbeds are constructed of crushed stone and covered 
with stone screenings. 



Planting 
Ornamental Trees 



^ Plant same as fruit trees, except that larger 

holes should be dug to accommodate the roots. 
The ground should be pressed down firmly over 
the roots with the foot. Two-thirds of the tops 
should be cut off on all ornamental trees, except 
Cut-leaved Birch and Horse Chestnuts, which 
should not be headed in. Care should be taken to prune the tops so that the trees 
will make a well balanced and uniform top. The forming of the crown is regulated 
entirely by the pruning. On some kinds of trees it may be necessary to tie- the tree 
to a strong stake to hold it firmly in its place. Wrap the trunks of Maples with 
building paper, four or five feet from the ground up, to keep out borers. Irrigate in 
dry seasons. 

M 1^ Soak the ground thoroughly after planting, 

M -M Evergreens -^ il and apply a thick covering of straw manure over 
^ ■ "^ the surface, around the tree, to retain moisture 

m the soil. Shade the trees with cloth, burlap or paper to prevent the hot sun from 
striking the tree, for the first two or three weeks, or until the tree starts to grow. 

Make the soil rich by applying well rotted 
barnyard manure, which should be worked in with 
the soil. Trim off all the ends of roots;_ plant 
shrubbery tv/o inches and roses three inches 
deeper than they stood in the nursery, pressing 
the ground firmly over the roots. Cut back tops 

on roses, leaving four inches above ground. On 

shrubbery trim up lower branches so as to form a 
well balanced head, and cut back one-half of top. All sprouts growing out of the 
ground on roses should be removed as soon as discovered, and should be cut close to 

Create beauty by skillful training of plants and vines. 



Planting and 

Pruning Shrubbery 

and Roses 



Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, 




LARGEST SHIPMENT OF TREES ON RECORD. 

The largest shipment of fruit trees ever made in the world was made by us on April 2nd, 1903. 
The shipment consisted of thirty-two furniture cars filled to the top with Greening's trees, all packed 
in bulk, each order being separated with rope partitions. The entire train load, consisting of about 
C63,000 fruit trees, largely peaches and apples, went to points along the fruit belt qf Michigan. This 
picture was taken while the train was pulling out of our siding leading from the M. C. R. R. track to 
our packing cellars, a distance of over one-half mile. Thus we demonstrate the magnitude of our facil- 
ities in the handling and shipping of trees. 

the stalk so as to prevent further sprouting. This is very important, as the wild 
sprouts if allowed to grow up will smother the grafted part. Cover roses during 
the winter v/ith leaves or straw. Cut back hardy Hydrangeas severely each year; 
other shrubbery trim out the old wood and head in to suit your taste each year. For 
best results trim several times -during the growing season to obtain compactness 
and shape desired. 



Chapter 
Two 



TREATISE ON CARE AND /T ^/^ 

*/^ PRUNING QF THE ORCHARD jjig 



II impractical VLinisM \\ 



Cultivation. Cultivate your orchards at given 
times, just the same as you do your corn, potato 
or root crops. Cultivate to force the tree as hard 
as possible the first three years. After the third year avoid cultivating deep. Plow 
shallow in an orchard; not over four or five inches deep, for if you turn up many 
roots it means injury. Keep free from weeds and farm stock. 

Crops to Grow in an Orchard; What and When. Hoed farm crops, such as corn, 
beans, potatoes, tobacco, etc., may be grown the first two years, in a peach orchard; 
the first three years in a plum and cherry orchard; the first three or four years in a 
pear and quince orchard, and the first five or six years in an apple orchard. Orchards 
should not be seeded to grass. Cropping orchard land exhausts the plant food in 
the soil. Exceptions should be made to the above where the soil is in poor physical 
condition, when it should be improved by keeping out all farm crops and applying 
manure to enrich the soil. Keep out all farm crops from bearing orchards. 

Winter Cover Crop. Sow oats during August and plow under the following 
spring. 

Implements. A disc or spring-tooth harrow seems to be about the best all- 
round implement to use during the growing season, especially on light soil. Dur- 
ing the dry season use a tooth harrow, and go over the ground as often as once a 
. week to prevent evaporation of moisture in soil. A man with a harrow and team 
can go over a large space in a day, and keep down the weeds in a large orchard 

The love of plants and flowers opens the heart to sympathies and warm impulses. 



10 Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groiuers^ and Landscapers^ Guide, 




A STUDY IN THE SCIENCE OF THE BEAUTIFUL,. 

These pictures represent one of the loveliest aspects of our home grounds. Imagine a space over 
one thousand feet in length artistically arranged with walks and driveways, rare plants and trees. 
Fig. 1 shows a banking of mixed shrubbery planted up againit our office building, also a corner of 
an evergreen hedge just visible. Fig. 2 shows a charming avenue of Norway maples along each side 
of the driveway leading from the residence to the stables. Fig 3 shows a gracful curve in a driveway 
lined with an evergreen hedge on one side and Norway maples on the other. Fig. 4 shows a banking 
of lilacs planted up against one of our buildings, also a junction of macadam driveways branching out 
in several directions. 



at a small expense if worked at the right time. In heavy soils, shallow plowing in 
the fall is very essential. Harrow and work crosswise and lengthwise. Use a hoe- 
around the trees. 

Manuring. In bearing orchards liberal manuring is advised. Barnyard 
manure stands in the lead as an all-round fertilizer. For peaches, cherries, 
and plums a fertilizer rich in potash and phosphoric acid is best. Ashes in sandy 
soils, or on lands deficient in potash, are of greatest value. They should be spread, 
broadcast over the surface and harrowed in. The value of ashes as a fertilizer for 
fruit crops is not being sufficiently appreciated; they are highly recommended by 
such authorities as Professor Bailey, and we notice that all fruit growers using- 
them usually grow the finest fruit. Every bushel of ashes should be saved and kept 
in a dry place for future use. Plowing under green crops, leguminous plants such as 
crimson clover, cow-peas or field-peas, are excellent for recuperating bearing or- 
chards. Sow crimson clover during August, work in with harrow, and turn under 
the crop the following season when in bloom. Sow cow-peas about June ist and 
turn under in fall. Sow field-peas May ist and turn under when ripe, allowing the 
seeds to grow a second crop to be turned under in fall, before frost. 

The Famous California Tree Wash. Slake eight pounds of fresh lime with hot 
water, and thin with water so that it can be stirred nicely; add two pounds of sul- 
phur, mixing thoroughly; take five ounces of sulphuric acid and dilute it with two- 
thirds water; mix the whole so as to make a thick heavy whitewash Apply to the 
body and large branches with a brush. We would urge the use of this wash in 
orchards, as it is the most wonderful application ever discovered for producing- 
smooth and healthy bodies. 

Greening's Nursery is the nest in which the hen of success lays the egg of fortune. 



Greening* s 20ih Century Fruit Groivers'^ a nd Landscapers* Guide, 11 




DELIVERING A CARLOAD OP GREENING'S TREES. 

We present herewith cuts showing a scene at delivery time of a carload of Greening's trees being 
delivered in the fruit belt. Fig. 1 shows how the orders are taken out of the car to be placed on the 
wagons of customers that are waiting to be loaded. Fig. 3 shows the wagons loaded with Greening's 
trees ready to start for home. Fig. 3. Here the customers have congregated to have their picture 
taken; their faces are beaming with smiles and they have expressed their sentiments regarding our 
trees by writing on the sign-board, "Greening's are O. K.'! The glory in doing business is to have satis- 
fied customers and here it is that we never fail. 



Keep Out the Borers. Fruit trees, especially peaches, are apt to be troubled 
with borers. The best remedy which has come to our notice is to mound up the 
earth in the fall, leaving it until the following spring, then remove the mound and 
dig out the borer with a knife. 

Spray your orchards when there is danger of their being injured by insects or 
fungous diseases. (See Treatise on Spraying.) 

Read the North American Horticulturist published by us, and issued monthly; 
the most complete horticultural adviser in circulation. It is a journal on PVuit 
Growing and contains timely hints that are valuable. 'Send fifty cents for a year's 
subscription. 

For Healing Bruised Trees. Take clay soil three parts and one part of fresh 
cow dung, mix thoroughly to a paste; then carve the edges of the wound with a 
sharp knife, so as to leave a smooth edge all around the wound. Apply the mixture 
about one inch thick over the wound, then bandage with cloth torn into strips. 

Thinning. An important operation with a good fruit crop is to thin it. It 
must be done at the right time, to insure best results. It should be done on peaches 
and plums before the seed formation has progressed very far. Thinning increases 
the size of the fruit remaining, and increases the profits every time it is done right. 

To Make Trees Bear. To promote fruitfulness on trees which have attained 
bearing size and which show no inclination of beginning to bear, the following 
method will be found effectual and safe: Take a sharp knife and make three circles 
two feet from the ground around the trunk of the tree, about four inches apart, 
cutting through the bark. The interruption caused in the flow of the sap will 
check the growth of the wood and produce the formation of fruit buds for the next 
season. This should be done early in July. 

We should look upon plants as our garden friends. 



12 Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groioers^ and Landscapers* Guide, 




SHRUBBERY FOR LAWN IMPROVEMENT. 

The most modern idea of using shrubbery for decorating is herewith presented. Attention is di- 
rected to our "Treatise on beautifying the surroundings of a home" in this book. Many useful sug- 
gestions may be found in this treatisfe on how to improve the front yard. Fig. 1 shows the effect of 
mass groupings of Spirea Van Houtii, Globe Flower, and Barberry Thunbergii. Fig. 3 shows a row 
of Weeping Locust trees, also masses of mixed shrubbery, a row of Norway maples, and an open 
grassy place as long as two city blocks. Fig. 3 shows a mass grouping of Spirea Van Houtii in full 
bloom, planted up against the house, with a broad expanse of open lawn facing the street in front of our 
office. 



When to Prune Orchards. From careful observation, and many years of actual 
experience, we recommend pruning orchards during March. If there is so much to 
be done that more time is required, begin middle of February. 

Pruning Tools, How to Use. Provide yourself with a good pruning saw, a 
strong, sharp pruning knife, a large and a small pruning shear, and a suitable ladder. 
In pruning make your cut so as to leave a small shoulder below, inclining the cut 
inwards so as to come out even above. Many orchards are ruined by cutting the 
branches too close to the body, making a large and ugly wound which seldom heals 
over. When large branches are cut ofif, cover the wound with white lead paint to 
prevent cracking. 

Prune every year. Aim to develop and 

maintain a uniform, well-balanced head. Avoid 
cutting off large limbs if possible. Prune during 
March. Note the habit of the tree; if spreading 
in growth confine your prunmg more to the side 
and top branches; if pyramidal in growth; thin 
the center and head in the top to cause spreading of the branches, so that the sun 
and air will have free access. Sun makes color; the richer the color and larger the 
size, the greater your profits. Don't prune too severely, but at the same time 
don't be afraid to take off where too much crowded. After a tree is planted the 
head should be trained in the right direction, and balanced so as to be able to carry 
a heavy weight of fruit without bending to the ground or breaking. We wish to 
impress the reader with the importance of moderately heading in the young apple 
orchard each year and the cutting out of all suckers and shoots which might inter- 
Responsibility educates the boy. Start him with a fruit plantation. 




Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide. 13 




A BEAUTIFUL, PANORAMA. 

Wbrsery work has suggested itself to us long ago as a science and an art. The study of the beau- 
tiful in nature furnishes a wide field for science and practice to engage every power of the mind. 
Figs. 1 and 2 show sections of Greening's east park that simply speak for themselves. Fig. 3 illustrates 
some fine lawn improvements along the highway. Fig. 4 shows a graceful curve in Greening's avenue 
of Silver Maples. 



fere with free circulation of air. It pays to thin the fruit. Fertilize to keep up the 
vitality and bearing power of the tree. A crop of crimson clover, field-peas or cow- 
peas plowed under occasionally is of great benefit to the bearing orchard. Apply 
ashes whenever they can be obtained. Spray for sound and large fruit. (See Spray- 
ing.) It pays to plant good varieties. 



r 



} 



The Pear Orchard 

II 



To produce the ideal tree, pruning the first 
few years is the most essential point. A rule 
which should be remembered is to prune trees 
so far as possible, with a pruning knife or shear. 
The idea is to form the framework of the tree 
while young, or before it begins to bear. The 
first three years cut back all the leading top shoots a third or a half of the preceding- 
year's growth. Straggly growers like Clapp's, Vicar, Nellis, etc., should be pruned 
from below so as to keep the branches off the ground when fruiting; at the same 
time the tops should be shortened in. With varieties such as C. de Nantes, Kieffer, 
and others of erect growth, the pruning should be confined to heading in and thin- 
ning the top. Thinning is strongly advised. Cultivate constantly, and fertilize 
thoroughly. Remove all the black and scaly bark on the trunk, and large branches, 
with a sharp knife. Cut out the black surface bark on the trunk and large branches 
down to the fresh under-bark; don't neglect this, as it will eventually kill the tree if 
left on. For market plant the C. de Nantes pear which ripens late and brings big 
prices. Dwarf Pears. Head in and prune same as Standard Pears; fertilize with 
stable manure. Apply the California tree wash every spring. 

Let us encourage the work of civic improvement societies. 



14 Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Gro<wers^ and Landscapers^ Guide* 




EVOLUTION IN PARK PLANTING. 



The Plum Orchard 



j The Cherry Orchard 



I 



Feed the bearing plum orchard heavily with 
ashes and manure. Keep up the growth and 
vitality by constant and thorough cultivation. 
The plum is very likely to overbear, and it will 
pay to thin. Shortening in the tops, especially on 
young, fast growing trees, should not be over- 
looked each year. Japan varieties require more heading in than European sorts, 
usually from one-quarter to one-third of the previous year's growth. Spray for in- 
sects (see chapter on spraying). Cut out black knot and burn the afifected parts as 
soon as discovered. We recommend the Japan varieties for profit, they are less sub- 
ject to disease and insects. Our leaders are Wickson, the latest and largest of all 
Japan varieties, Burbank and Abundance. 

Use ashes and stable manure for fertilizer, 
spreading broadcast over the ground around the 
tree. Avoid banking up ashes against the body 
of the tree, as it may injure the bark and kill the 
tree. Remove suckers from trunks; head in some 
each year while the trees are young, and thin the 
tops moderately. Cherries will thrive in places where other trees would fail, and 
will bear fine crops under conditions very unfavorable to all other kinds of fruit. 
They respond, however, to good cultivation and are profitable to a degree, if cared 
for and sprayed. Watch the slug which eats the lining off the leaves. Apply slacked 
lime or dry ashes to destroy slugs. We are introducing the Brusseler Braune 
Cherry, originated in Poland, which we predict will occupy front rank among profit- 
able and fine cherries. It ripens two weeks later than other sorts now in cultivation, 
is of Morello type, very hardy, fruit large, of brownish red, thick meat, small -pit. 

For a commercial peach orchard, climate, 
location, and especially the elevation should be 
carefully considered. Low lands will seldom 
produce good marketable fruit. High elevation 
with good air and water drainage have always 
shown the best paying results. While we would 
not advise planting on very heavy clay soil, yet we find that peaches can be grown 
successfully on almost any kind of soil that will produce a good farm crop. Most 
varieties of peaches prefer a light soil, while a few varieties seem to succeed best on 
a heavy soil, hence it is well for those planting on a large scale to make a careful 
study of these conditions. We recommend thorough cultivation of the orchard dur- 
ing the entire growing season uo to about September iSth. Cultivate and fertilize 
to get a good healthy growth of wood and a well matured development of fruit 
buds during the growing season. Losses and failures often occur simply on account 
of stopping the cultivation too early in the season, causing the fruit buds to mature 
early in the season, and when later on there are warm rains and high temperature, 
as is frequently the case during October, the fruit buds will swell only to be killed 
by the first heavy frost. We do not recommend summer pruning except to remove 



The Peach Orchard 



Nature's prescription: "Fruit, flowers and sunshine." 



Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Gro<wers^ and Landscapers* Guide. 15 




SOAl£: OF OUR SURROLUWlAtiS. 



the suckers from trunk and large branches. The proper time for pruning is the 
latter part of February and during the month of March. The matter of pruning is 
of prime importance in a peach orchard. Your profits largely depend upon it. Some 
varieties require a different method of pruning from others. Every grower should 
aim to study the habit and peculiarity of varieties and prune accordingly to obtain 
the best results. Our method of pruning a peach orchard herein presented is taken 
from our own experience as fruit growers, and the knowledge obtained through the 
courtesies of the most successful peach growers of this state, and may well be re- 
garded as strictly up-to-date. A peculiarity of the top is that it makes a greater 
growth, under favorable conditions than the root can maintain in full vigor, espe- 
cially during its first fruiting years. Peaches naturally grow an open head, but in 
most cases it is necessary to thin for an open top, so that sunshine may reach the 
fruit, and produce color and quality. The first year after planting be careful to form 
your head in the right proportion and shape. Prune to secure a body 24 inches to 
the first limb on bearing trees. Prune to four or five main branches after the first 
year and these head in about one-third of past season's growth. The second and 
third year head in about one-third and remove the small growth one or two feet 
up on the large limbs. Aim to build up a strong framework, such as will carry a 
heavy crop of fruit. Remove suckers. Prune to utnbrella shape, open in the cen- 
ter. Follow up the heading-in method right along, at first to build up a good tree, 
and afterwards for the purpose of thinning the fruit, which in most all cases is set 
much too heavy. Thinning by hand before there is too much growth of seed is ab- 
solutely necessary where large and fine fruit is desired. Thin so as to keep the 
fruit three to six inches apart. Apply ashes for fertilizer in liberal quantities, where 
the soil is deficient in potash, especially on sandy soil. For market select varieties 
of good size, fine color, high quality, and above all, hardy sorts and good shippers; 
varieties like "Banner, " and "New Prolific," which will always command the 
markets, no matter how plentiful fruit may be. It will pay the reader to study into 
the high qualities and market value of these varieties and to read the indorsements 
of growers and authorities. See illustrations and descriptions. 

Prune in tree form. Remove suckers and 
dead branches. Trim in symmetrical form; thin 
out branches moderately in center when too 
crowded. Fertilize with rich stable manure; cul- 
tivate often; thin out when bearing too freely. 
Select a sandy or loamy soil. 

For a vineyard select a good, healthy, warm 
soil, well drained, and if possible, an elevated lo- 
cation; if sloping towards the south, so much the 
better. Run the rows north and south. Plant 
eight feet apart each way. Plow deep, or subsoil 
the ground before planting. Keep the soil well 



The 
Quince Orchard 



=^ 



J^ The Vineyard M 



worked and use barnyard manure and ashes as fertilizer. Remove all sprouts com- 
The Cream Beauty rose is a joy forever. 



16 Greeni ng^s 20th Century Fruit Groovers* and Landscapers* Guide* 




BLOCK OF ONE-YEAR-OLD STANDARD PEAR, 

This block represents the finest growth we have ever produced in our nurseries. It is the ideal 
block of what goes to make up the best achievements in the production of the pear tree. A strong, 
healthy and vigorous growth; some of the trees, as will be seen, towering far above a man's head. This 
is a result of one season's growth on soil prepared under new and scientific methods. A triumph 
indeed over the old way of growing trees. 

ing out of the ground on bearing vines. Train your vines on wire trellises. Tie up 
the vines at least three times, during the season. Heading in the overhanging 
branches on bearing vines to ripen the wood and fruit should be done about August 
15th. Place the posts for wire trellises 24 feet apart. Brace the end post securely. 
Fasten the wire with staples driven three-fourths the way in. Posts should be at 
least 8 feet long and set 2^ feet into the ground. Fasten the first wire 24 inches, the 
second '44 and the third 64 inches from the ground. Use No. 11 iron wire. Plow 
shallow up to the vines in the fall and away from them in the spring, and cultivate 
thoroughly during the summer. piRST SEASON AFTER PLANTING. 

Cut back all young wood except two buds, al- 
lowing one of these to grow up. 

SECOND SEASON. If the cane has made 
a growth of 4 feet or over the first season, cut 

^ " down to within 2 feet of the ground, allowing no 

more than four or five of the upper buds to grow; all lower ones should be rubbed 
off during May. In case the vine has made but a feeble growth, it should be cut 
down again to two buds and treated same as the first season. 



Pruning 
J^ Grape Vines ^ 



Home is your heaven on earth; beautify it with trees and shrubs. 



Greening's 20th Century FruU Groiuers^ and Landscapers* Guide, 17 




OUR GROUP OF CHAMPION BUDDKRS. 

An aggregation of skilled workmen in the art of budding trees. A small army of active people 
selected from the most reliable, skilled and intelligent help at the nursery. With this force we are able 
to bud about 48,000 trees per day. The budding season usually opens about July 5th and closes the 
latter part of September. One would hardly believe it possible for one man to insert 5,315 buds in 
ten hours' work, yet this remarkable feat was accomplished last season by one of our budders, with a 
growing record which proved to be about 90 per cent., thus breaking all previous records. Twenty 
years ago 1,000 buds per day was considered a big day's work for an experienced budder; to-day our 
budders average about 3,000 trees per day. Pray, have we kept pace with the progressive movement 
of the world? Have we improved our conditions? 



THIRD SEASON. If the vine has made a strong and healthy growth the two 
previous years, two or three of the strongest canes should be left to produce fruit. 
These canes should be left about 2 feet long, starting at the first wire or a little be- 
low. In case the growth from the previous year is light, leave only two canes near 
the first wire about I2 inches long, all other suckers to be cut off. 

After the third year good judgment should be used not to overtax the vine. 
Usually from 8 to lo feet of young bearing wood evenly proportioned throughout 
the vine, either as canes or spurs, is about the right quantity of bearing wood to be 
left on a good healthy vine. One or two spurs three buds long should always be 
left near the first wire to produce new canes for the coming season. If trained for 
an arbor, all young shoots should be cut back to three buds after the fourth year; 
this produces a dense mass of wood and foliage and often an abundance of fruit of 
fair quality. 



iF 



Currants 
and Gooseberries 



One-third of the young wood should be cut 
off each year. Old stems which produce but 
little fruit should be cut out. On bearing plants 
remove all branches which hang over and touch 
the ground. Cultivate shallow and often. Apply 
rotted manure as fertilizer. 



For destroying insects see Spraying. 



Raspberries 
and Blackberries 



Red Raspberries, also Blackberries, should be 
allowed to grow in matted rows. In old patches 
it is necessary to thin the plants in the row to 
permit free access of air and sunshine, allowing 
only those plants of strongest fruiting power to 
remain. Black Raspberries, also Dewberries, 
After fruiting all old canes should be removed, 
Stable manure should be applied in the fall 



should be grown in hills. 

cutting them close to the ground. 

in order to keep up the vitality of the soil. Prune during March. Red varieties of 

raspberries, also blackberries, should be pruned back to two and one-half feet from 



Cultivate an appreciation of trees and plants.. You can do it. 



18 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Gro'wers' and Landscapers' Guide, 




OUR MAMMOTH STORAGE CELIiARS. — LARGEST IN THE WORLD. 

These grand storage buildings give an interesting example of modern genius in the storage and 
care of nursery stock. They are five in number, built of quarried stone and representing the invest- 
ment of large capital. Total area of storage room 77,000 sq. ft., being the largest in the world; capacity 
over three million trees. With the facilities we have for the perfect storage of stock, we are prepared 
to meet emergencies arising from shipping stock during the winter and late in spring. Stock is handled 
and packed in these buildings without exposure to sun, wind and frost. The carelessness among 
nurserymen generally in handling trees, if seen by planters would prove a big surprise. Live trees 
are handled too much like brush from the clearings. Is it a wonder that there are so many dis- 
appointed planters? 



the ground. On the black raspberries and dewberries allow from 5 to 6 canes to 
stand for fruiting two and one-half feet long. Red varieties of Raspberries are not 
as long-lived as black sorts, and usually require replanting on new ground after 
three or four crops have been taken off. A sandy, black or gravelly loam is 
best. To prevent rust on Blackberries use Bordeaux mixture (See Spraying). Cut 
out all diseased canes. For profit the Conrath Raspberry leads them all; it is early, 
very large, hardy, etc. See colored illustration. 

The soil for Strawberries should be made very 
rich. A sandy or gravelly loam is best, a black 
loam next, then clay. For heavy soils only the 
most vigorous growers should be selected. 
Strawberries are of two classes, the Pistillate and 
the Staminate. Pistillate sorts are destitute of 
the stamens, and require a row of Staminate (or perfect flowering) sorts to be 
planted among them at intervals not exceeding a rod; the former, if properly fer- 
tilized with good, perfect flowering sqrts, are more prolific than those with perfect 
flowers, or the sorts known as Staminate. For field culture set in rows 3^4 to 4 
feet apart, 12 inches in row; for garden, 15 inches apart each way, leaving pathway 
every third row. To produce extra fine large fruit, keep in hills, pinching off all 
runners as soon as they appear. Apply rotted barnyard or vegetable manure, such 
as muck, rotten turf, wood soil, clover or some other green crops turned under, also 
some ashes. In the fall, after the ground is frozen, spread a good covering of straw 
or leaves over the plants for protection during the winter and remove the covering 
before growth starts in the spring. We advise early spring planting. The first 
season all blossoms should be removed, so as to throw the entire vigor towards pro- 
ducing plants for the next season's crop. Usually after one crop is taken they should 
be plowed up, unless the plants are healthy and appear to be able to bear another 
crop. Old patches of Strawberries do not pay. 

Stand by the Constitution, Our Country and the Conrath Raspberry. 




% 

Greening's 20th Century Fruit Gronvers^ and Landscapers* Guide* 19 




HARVESTING 100,000 TREES IN ONE DAY. 

We are pleased to show herewith a photograph of many wagons loaded with trees coming from 
the field, on Nov. llth, 1903, the day we dug and cellared over 100,000 trees in less than 10 hours' 
time. This achievement exemplifies the possibility of digging trees under modern methods, as illus- 
trated on next page. 




The subject of Marketing is one of great im- 

f - ^ portance. Many who are successful in growing 

¥¥'fi*c n ]|/I It ** r^ ^'^'^^^ ^°^ market often fail in marketing their 

IllIllS on iTiarKeilllS products. Few realize the importance of looking 

^ ^ up a market before shipping time. If you have 

a good home market you should make the 
proper use of it and deal honestly with your patrons, thereby creating a demand for 
your products. If you depend on shipping your fruit, find a well known and estab- 
lished house in whom you can place your confidence and give them all the business 
you can. Don't overlook the value of a home market, if you have one, and don't 
refuse a reasonably fair cash offer for fruit in the orchard. Be cautious in shipping 
to unknown parties. Treat with mistrust letters of alluring and tempting character. 
Try to keep posted on the market. Read one or more Horticultural papers; they 
are the best instructors as to demand and supply. Send 50 cents for one year's sub- 
scription to the North American Horticulturist, a monthly fruit growers' Journal, 
published by us. Don't wait until the last moment before deciding what kind of 
package you are to use. It is poor economy to hire cheap, green and unreliable help 
for picking and packing. Never tolerate rough and reckless handling of packages 
containing fruit. Haul fruit in a spring wagon. Ship directly after picking, as every 
moment's delay decreases the value of fruits. Stamp your name and address on 
every package; mark on the outside of every package the variety contained. Avoid 
shipping soft fruits, such as berries, so as to reach the market on Saturday evening 
or Sunday morning. Remember that good choice fruit, well handled, properly 
graded, and neatly put up will always sell at good prices. Aim to grow such fruit, 
and then put it up in good shape. Ship in refrigerator cars if it is possible to obtain 
them, all kinds of small fruit, including peaches, plums and cherries, especially for 
distant points. Fruit dealers are not fools, and it is a difficult matter to deceive them 

The pen is mightier than the sword, but the Banner peach is mightier than either. 



20 Greening's 20ih Century Fruit GroTvers' and Landscapers*^ Guide, 




OUR STEAM TREE DIGGER AT WORK. 

These photographs give a comprehensive idea of the workings of our "Steam Digger." Tliese pic- 
tures were taken on Nov. 11th, 1903, the day we dug and cellared over 100,000 trees, showing the 
digger in full operation. The complete cost of this machine is over $3,000, and as far as we know 
there are only four in use at the present time. 

by dishonest packing. Establish for yourself a reputation for good and honest 
grading and packing. Secure strong and neat packages of full measure; don't try to 
pass ofif a short measure for a full one. In very warm weather cut holes in tight 
packages in which you are shipping fruit, for circulation of air. Give good full 
measure. Grade closely, pack honestly, pick carefully; sort out bruised fruit, and 
never mix windfalls with hand-picked. All fruits should be hand-picked and handled 
to avoid bruising. Windfalls should be marked on the outside of the package, as 
such. When packing in barrels, kegs or boxes, shake gently when half full and 
repeat when nearly full, to settle the fruit. 

MARKETING APPLES. Gather when ripe, before they drop or are blown ofif 
by the wind. Use good judgment as to the right time to gather. If picked too soon, 
poor flavor and wilting of the fruit will be the result; if left on the tree too long, they 
will drop off and cause loss. The proper time for gathering Winter Apples is from 
September 25th to October loth. 

Place the fruit in barrels or boxes, put them in a cool, dry place, and let them 
remain open, standing on end, until ready for shipment; then empty carefully on 
straw, hay or blankets, re-sort and pack all sound fruit in barrels. Another method 
is to put them under cover in a shed or barn until there is danger of freezing, when 
they should be barreled up or put on the shelves in a cool cellar. Mark the variety 
and the grade on the end intended for the head. Use windfalls and culls for drying, 
cider, jelly or vinegar. 

MARKETING PEARS. Gather before they are ripe and soft, while yet firm. 
Early varieties soften quicker than late, and require quicker handling. Strong crates, 
either half or full bushel, are best for shipping pears. Make two grades, and don't 
ship culls. Plant the best varieties, such as C. de Nantes, a variety that brings big 
money, late in the fall. Ripen Winter Pears in a dark cellar. 

MARKETING PLUMS. Plums are classed with soft fruits and must be han- 
dled accordingly. Many of the European sorts are very poor shippers, and growers 

Which do you prefer in summer — salt pork or fruit? 



Greening^ s 20th Ceniary Fruit Gro<wers^ and Landscapers^ Guide, 21 



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OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. 



are pleased at the introduction of a class of Plums that can be shipped safely to dis- 
tant markets, naniely, the Japan sorts. We have kept "Burbank" and "Wickson" 
plums on shelves in the office for 30 days during warm weather. Pick before getting 
soft. Use a strong, stiff Climax basket, either one-fifth or quarter bushel. If shipped 
in large baskets, they rarely ever reach their destination in good condition. Fancy 
or large fruit should be wrapped in tissue paper and shipped in shallow baskets. 
Unless you have through freight lines, affording direct and quick transportation, we 
would advise shipping by express. 

MARKETING PEACHES. The peach business has undergone somewhat of a 
revolution the past 8 or 10 years. Ten years ago early sorts were considered the 
most profitable; lately early sorts have not only proven a failure in market but in 
many cases it would have paid the grower to let them rot on the trees rather than 
to have shipped them. We write thus to impress the reader with the importance of 
planting varieties that are firm, and good shippers. Such as Banner, New Prolific, 
Smock, Mathew's Beauty, Elberta, etc., are best for distant markets. 

GRADING AND PACKING PEACHES. We wish that we were able to put it 
down in words strong enough so that it would be fully understood by growers of 
peaches, how important it is that the grading and packing be done straight and 
carefully; also that the fruit should average evenly throughout the package in size 
and quality. How many growers curse the commission merchant, when they are 
often to blame themselves. Few realize that failures in fruit growing are often the 
result of crooked and careless packing. The handling, packing and marketing of 
fruit has become a science, and the sooner fruit growers find this out the more 
successful they will be in marketing their fruit products. Pick carefully by hand. 
Handle with greatest care, grade every package, no matter how nice they appear 
on top. Bring under shelter and grade from benches or use a Peach Grader. In 
packing shake the package gently from time to time until filled. Ship only two 
grades; and mark each grade on the outside of package. Sell or ship immediately 
after packing. Haul with spring wagon. Throw away all decayed and soft fruit 
rather than mix in and spoil the sale of good fruit. Go over your trees at least three 
times, picking the best colored and ripest each time. Consult dealers and shippers 
as to kind and size of package to be used, and get a full supply in time to avoid dis- 
appointment and loss in the shipping season. Cover fruit with a cloth to keep off 
dust and sun while hauling it. Sell all you can at home if you can get fair prices, 
and ship the balance. 

MARKETING CHERRIES. Pick with stems on before fruit is too ripe. De- 
liver or ship the same day when picked if possible. Use shallow baskets or crates 
for shipping. For the large Sweet Cherries good prices can be obtained if packed 
in small baskets to imitate California packages; nearly double the price and ofteii 



Clean up the back yard; then plant it to fruit. 



22 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, 




OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. 



more may be secured in this way. We notice that a few enterprising Michigan fruit 
growers are using this method of packing with great profit. The Brusseler Braune 
Cherry, which we have introduced recently, ripens two weeks later than the latest 
known cherry; it is of the largest size, fully as large as the big sweet varieties, dark 
brown, very productive and a very hardy tree. It will be planted extensively in the 
future. 

MARKETING QUINCES, Pick when golden yellow; handle as carefully as 
peaches, as every bruise will turn brown and spoil the looks of the fruit. 

MARKETING GRAPES. Gather when fully colored and sweet. Too many 
grapes are picked too green, and are a great detriment to the market early in the 
season. Unripe grapes are injurious to health, and are relished by no 'one. While 
picking handle very carefully, lay them gently into the basket. Use a strong stiff 
basket, eight or ten pound. Two pickings should be made, as those most exposed to 
the sun will ripen first. Use a spring wagon for hauling. Grapes may be kept for 
a considerable length of time after picking, even into the winter if handled with 
proper care, and if kept in a cool cellar or storage, where the air is not too damp, 
and the temperature even. 

MARKETING BERRIES. Provide neat crates and baskets. Do not be tempt- 
ed to use a dirty basket or crate, even if given you. In selling, everything depends 
on having fine, large fruit put up in attractive packages. Give each picker a stand, 
which can be made of lath, to hold four quart boxes, and instruct them, and see to it 
that they handle the berries much more carefully than they would eggs. If you have 
a good variety and have cared for them well, there will be very few small ones. 
Round up the box well and turn the stem ends of the top strawberries down. This 
gives a showy appearance, and is much better than topping ofif with extra large ones. 
Customers like to receive a full quart, and just as good berries at the bottom as at 
the top of the basket. For a market one hundred miles or more distant, berries 
must be picked in a very firm and partially green condition and shipped per express. 
This condition can only be learned by experience. If possible, engage one party to 
take all your berries at a uniform price. An enterprising groceryman for your home 
trade, or a reliable commission merchant if you are obliged to send to a city. You 
will not be likely to make a bargain in advance with a commission merchant unless 
your berries are well known to him. In a home market it is a great advantage to be 
able to deliver your berries and have them off your hands. Women are preferred as 
pickers, then girls, then boys. To have picking well done requires close supervision. 
To be successful, your picking must be well done at any cost. Avoid jolting in car- 
rying berries to market or depot. Have commission men report condition on ar- 
rival, and bring every influence to bear on railway and steamboat men to have them 
handle the crates carefully. 

MARKETING CURRANTS. Pick when fully ripe, and ship either in one 
quart boxes, the same as berries, one-half bushel shallow crates or boxes, or Climax 
grape baskets. 

This book is fully protected by copyright. Any infringement will be prosecuted. 



Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Gro<Tuers* and Landscapers^ Guide* 23 




Some of our artistic compositions, presenting very attractive views as seen from the highway. 

MARKETING GOOSEBERRIES. Pick just before they begin to ripen, while 
yet green. On account of their strong and tart taste they are very desirable for 
canning, pies and jelly. They also make one of the finest and most palatable catsups 
of any fruit grown; if this is new to you, "try it," and you will be surprised. When 
the fruit is left to ripen on the bushes, the berries are very sweet and delicious, 
and there is occasionally a demand for ripe berries; it is always well to find out from 
the merchant who handles your gooseberries whether he wishes them green or ripe. 
One of the best packages to use in shipping gooseberries is the Climax lo-pound 
grape basket; one-half bushel crates or boxes are also very desirable. To clean 
gooseberries, after being gathered, run them through a fanning mill, with cloth over 
the sieves. Gooseberries may be shipped long distances. 




TREATISE ON BEAUTIFYING THE 
* SURROUNDINGS OF THE HOME 




N PRESENTING this chapter on home improvement, the writer has in 
mind the arousing of the public interest, the awakening to the necessity 
of more pleasant surroundings, and particularly a dispensation of infor- 
mation that an enterprising public is very much in need of. Our office is 
besieged with inquiries from people desiring information and ideas of how 
to lay out front yards, lawns, etc., and the kinds of trees and plants best 
suited for this purpose. Believing that the duty to give this information 

rests largely with the nurserymen, and desiring to fill a long felt want, we are 

pleased to embody in this book a treatise giving practical ideas, in very brief and 

comprehensible form, along this line of work. 

f > HOW SHALL WE IMPROVE A] 

1 The Front Yard || beautify the front yard? Let 



AND 

us 

The ideal front yard should have an open, 

grassy front, which, like a picture, should have its borders and edges frarned, and 
trimmed with suitable plants and trees so as to give an attractive and pleasing efiFect. 
The central feature of the front yard, to which all parts relate, is the resi- 
dence. Let us begin by planting beds of hardy flov/ering shrubbery right up against 

Eating Banana apples. Don't bite off more than you can swallow. 



24 Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groivers^ and Landscapers* Guide. 




Bird's-eye view of our main Storage Cellar, covering an area of over 77,000 square feet, built of 
quarried stone, the largest and most costly building of its kind in the world. Its storage capacity is 
over three m.illion trees. 



the house in front, on either side of the entrance, and along the sides of the house 
where it will show from the front. For this purpose hardy shrubs are most desirable, 
for the reason that they are permanent and may be pruned in any form desired. 
Those most suitable for this purpose are the Spireas: Van Houtii, Thunbergii, Bu- 
maldi, Reevesii, Prunifolia; also Barberry Thunbergii, Deutzia Gracilis, Globe 
Flower, Hydrangea, Red Snowberry and Syringa Golden. They should be planted 
two to three feet apart. If a banking of tender flowers is desired, plant beds of 
Geraniums, Cannas, Caladiums, Asters, Nasturtiums, Heliotrope and Peonies. A 
hedge of Arbor Vitae, or a double row of mixed hardy shrubbery, should be planted 
along the edge of the lawn as a border for the sides and background. A group or 
border may also be dominated by any one kind of shrubbery chosen from some of 
the nursery catalogues. A row of Maples, Birches, Catalpas or Mountain Ash 
should be planted along one or both sides of the driveway leading to the barn. A 
spacious front yard should have a few trees scattered about in such a manner as 
not to obstruct the front view or detract from the beauty of the lawn. The follow- 
ing are most suitable: Cut-leaved Birch, Catalpas, Mountain Ash, Prunus Pissardi, 
Purple Fringe, Sweet Gum, Maiden Hair, Magnolia, Weir's Cut-leaved Maple, La- 
burnum, Purple-leaved Beech; also Weeping Elm, Tea's Weeping Mulberry, Kil- 
marnock Willow, etQ. Don't overcrowd or make the front yard look like a checker- 
board. The banking of shrubbery and flowers up against the house is in most 
cases amply sufficient to add beauty and grace to the front of the house. Ever- 
greens of the fancy varieties may be arranged in the background, either singly or 
in groups for fine effects. The varieties best suited for a heavy background are the 
Norway Spruce, American Arbor Vitae, Red Cedar, Colorado Blue Spruce, etc. The 
slower growing varieties, such as Tom Thumb Arbor Vitae, Hovey's Golden 
Arbor Vitae, Siberian Arbor Vitae, Chinese Compacta, Irish and Golden-tipped 
Juniper, are best suited for planting singly or in clusters. All of these 
may be pruned in any desired shape to please the taste. Climbing roses, 
Clematis and vines should be grown on wire trellises near the porches or 
on buildings around the place, or around the windows or doors, so as 
not to exclude the sun and air. We herewith give a list of shrubbery inclined to 
grow tall, which may be used to plant along the border of the lawn, either singly, 
in groups or hedge-rows. Purple Barberry, Flowering Currants, Deutzias, Dog- 
wood, Golden Elder, Purple-leaved Filbert, Forsythia, Upright Honeysuckle, Golden 

Eat fruit and enjoy life all you can, for you will be a long time dead. 



Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groiuers^ and Landscapers' Guide, 25 




GREENING'S BICYCLE PATH. 

Constantly having in mind the improvement of the highways, w& have built at our expense a bicycle 
path leading from the city to our nursery grounds and office, a distance of one and one-half miles. It 
is constructed of ground limestone, is as smooth as a floor, and is kept in perfect condition at our ex- 
pense. It is conceded by many that this path is one of the finest in the country. It is the delight of 
cyclers, and many fast records have been made on it. 

Spirea, Spirea Van Houtii, Lilac, Double Flowering Plum, Snowballs, Snowberry, 
Syringas, Weigelias, etc. The best creeping plants for brick or stone walls are the 
Ampelopsis Veitchii (Japan Ivy). Other climbing plants best suited for screening 
or covering buildings* fences and unsightly objects are the Honeysuckle, Dutchman's 
Pipe, American Ivy, Akebia, Wistaria, Trumpet Vine, Clematis Paniculata, Cinna- 
mon Vine, etc. Rose beds may be planted on the sides of the lawn or in other places 
where thfey will get plenty of sunlight. Attention is directed to the beautiful illus- 
trations showing the splendid improvements made around our own homes, buildings 
and parks here at the nursery. Those seeking knowledge along these lines are cor- 
dially invited to visit our grounds, where they may get ideas that cannot be obtained 
in any other way. 



~~ ^ First of all, let it be understood that the 

■^ The Lawn J^ \ front lawn must not be used as a temporary 

^ driveway or convenient place to store wood, 
rubbish or ancient machinery. The ground for a lawn should be carefully prepared 
and enriched. It should be graded to a pleasing slope and sown with lawn grass. For 
a farm lawn, sow with one quart of Kentucky blue grass seed to the square rod. 
The surface must be even and the soil mellow. It should be rolled and mowed 
frequently. Water should be applied freely by means of a sprinkler wherever pos- 
sible. The size of the lawn should correspond to the dimensions of the house and 
its distance from the highway. 

"~~ ~~ ~ ~ ~ ^. We ought to perhaps offer an apology for 

The Back Yard || "'^t placing this section pertaining to the im- 

::fi provement of the back yard at the head of the 



[ 



list. In many cases there are ample reasons why the work of home improvement 
should begin in the back yard. The first thing to do is to clean up. Remove stones, 
litter, rubbish, and everything unsightly that is movable. Find a suitable place for 
the woodpile, level the ground, take down broken fences and build new ones. Plant 
climbing vines against unsightly buildings, or make a screen of evergreens, or plant 
tall growing shrubbery, to hide unsightly objects in the back yard. 

Round out the corners of the lawn with graceful shrubbery. 



# 



26 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Gronoers^ and Landscapers* Guide, 




Piece-Root 
Grafts. 



Whole-Root 
Grafts. 



No. 2 
Seedlings. 



No. 1 
Seedlings. 



PIECE-ROOT VS. WHOLE-ROOT TREES. 



Above is shown the piece-root and whole-root graft, also No. 1 and No. 3 fruit tree seedlings. Each 
one of the bundles contains the same number of grafts and seedlings. The superior value of whole- 
root trees must be readily apparent, even to the inexperienced, still there are nurserymen who will 
argue that piece-root and No. S seedlings are equal to whole-root and No. 1 seedlings. We use only 
the strongest whole-roqt stock and the results are most gratifying. 



Put them where they are needed, but be sure 
that they are needed. Go from one point to an- 
other in the easiest and simplest way possible. 
If you can throw in a gentle curve, it will en- 
hance the charm of it. For driveways use gravel, 
cinders, stone screenings, or tan bark. For walks, 
cement and stone flagging are the best materials; 
the next best are gravel, planks, screenings and 
cinders. Wooden walks should be sunk on a level with the sod so that the lawn 
mower may pass over without hindrance. In flower gardens a strip of sod may be 
left as a walk. 



Walks and Drives 

and 
Where to Put Them 



r 



Us Fence Question 



\ 



There should be no fence in front of the 
premises unless there is a reason for it. They 
are neither ornamental nor desirable. The 
money put into a fence will often buy enough stock to plant the whole yard. The 
street and walks sufficiently define the place. In the back yard there may be need 
for a fence, which may become both a screen and a shelter. Usually it can be covered 
with creeping vines or grape-vines. 



3S Hedges 






Hedges add beauty to a lawn or park as 
jewelry does to good dress. Repeated and care- 

^ w ful pruning are leading essentials which must be 

observed to maintain a well-kept hedge. The leading varieties of evergreens for 
hedges are: American Arbor Vitae, Norway Spruce and Red Cedar. Among the 
shrub hedges, the following are the most valuable: Privet, Japan Quince, Purple 
Barberry, etc. All of these may be pruned into any desired shape. 

In conclusion, it is the hope of the writer that his efforts in compiling this work 
may lead to higher ideals, greater happiness and more complete enjoyment of life. 

Flowers are Nature's jewels in emerald settings. 



Greening's 20th Century Fruit GroTvers' and Landscapers'^ Guide, 27 




OVER 500,000 PEACH TREES IN BUD IN ONE SOLID BLOCK. 

An ocean of trees, yet only a small portion of our annual output. Our peach trees are grown from 
the genuine natural peach seed, gathered for us under contract in the mountains of Tennessee. Trees 
grow" from this seed have all the health, vigor and hardiness of the natural stock retained and pre- 
served, and will make profitable and lasting orchards. The average height of trees in this block 
when photographed, at 4 months old, was about 4 feet; such wonderful growth being the result of 
turning under two heavy crops of cow-peas and a liberal application of stable manure. 



Chapter 
Five 



TREATISE ON TREE INSECTS AND 
* DISEASES, SPRAYING, ETC., ETC. 



By PROF. L. R. TAFT and C. E. GREENING 

SPRAYING. — Get a spraying apparatus of a size commensurate with the area 
of your orchard. In the use of the various solutions, much care should be given to 
their proper strength and to the purity of the chemicals. See that the solutions are 
kept continually stirred. Use clean water. Run the solutions through a screen. 
Mount the apparatus on a rart or wagon. Use the celebrated "Vermorel Nozzle." 
Use a strong hose of sufficient length to spray one or more rows at a time. For 
large trees use an extension rod to elevate the nozzle up into tree.' Write us for 
low prices on a first-class spraying outfit. 

The insects which injure trees and plants 
obtain their food either by biting off and swal- 
lowing portions of the more tender parts, or by 
sucking the sap through a slender tube, and the 
remedies selected must be adapted to the habits 
of the insects. Thus most of those in the first 
group can be destroyed by covering the sections 
on which they feed with Paris green, while 
for the sucking insects something must be used which will act upon the breathing 
organs, or have a caustic effect upon the bodies of the insects. 

CODLING MOTHS. — These attack the apple, and occasionally the pear and 
quince. There are two broods, one of which hatches in Tune and the other in 
August. Spray with the Paris green mixture soon after the blossoms fall, while 
the calyx lobes are still open, for the first brood, and the latter part of July for the 
second brood. 

PLANT-LICE, APHIDES, ETC.— These are sucking insects. Use kerosene 
emulsion, strong tobacco-water, or whale-oil soap. As a rule, they are most plentiful 
in hot, dry seasons. 

Cultivate kindness — and a crop o£ Banner peaches. 



Destructive Insects 

and 
Remedies for Them 



^ 



28 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groioers* and Landscapers' Guide* 




OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. 

Fig. 1 illustrates one of^our picturesque macadam driveways. Fig. 3 shows an effective display of 



shrubbery, trees, and Tom Thumb evergreens with an attractive background, 
of our charming Silver Maple avenue. 



Fig. 3 gives a fine view 



SAN JOSE SCALE, SCURFY SCALE, OYSTER-SHELL SCALE, AND 
OTHERS. — These are also sucking insects, but differ from ordinary plant-lice by 
secreting a shell-like covering. They travel but a short distance after hatching. 
Most of them have but one brood, but the San Jose scale may have three or four 
broods in a season, and multiplies so rapidly that millions of San Jose scale may 
come from one feinale insect during one season. The oyster-shell scale is one-fourth 
inch long, brown in color, and of about the shape of an oyster-shell. The scurfv 
scale is gray in color, flattened, and nearly the size of a pin-head. San Jose scale is 
much smaller, resembling small black "fly-specks," so small that it is rather difficult 
to detect thein until one becomes familiar with their appearance, except when 
numerous; they can be more readily distinguished with a magnifying glass. 
When first hatched, their color is yellow and they move about very rapidly, but in 
a short time a scale-like covering begins to form, resembling fly-specks. 

REMEDIES FOR SCALE-INSECTS.— For San Jose scale use the "sulphur, 
lime and salt mixture," prepared as follows: Twenty-five pounds of lime, 15 pounds 
of sulphur, 8 pounds of salt. Slack the lime, which should be fresh, in warm water, 
and keep stirring to avoid burning. When the slacking begins, sift on the sulphur 
and mix thoroughly. After slacking and mixing, add enough water to make a thin 
paste, and boil from one to two hours; then add the salt and continue the boiling 
for fifteen minutes, then add enough hot water to make fifty gallons. Mix thor- 
oughly, run through a strainer and apply the mixture while hot. This remedy 
should be used only while trees are dormant, March being the best month. For a 
summer application for the destruction of the San Jose scale, prepare this mixture 
in the same way, leaving out the salt. The spraying should be done very thor- 
oughly, so as to cover every part of the branches infected by the insects. In sections 
where the San Jose scale prevails, an application of the above mixture should be 
made each year. For the oyster-shell and scurfy scales a good remedy is to spray 
the trees during the winter with 6 pounds of caustic soda in 50 gallons of water. 

PLUM CURCULIO. — In addition to the plum, this insect attacks the peach, 
cherry and apple. The insects are beetles, one-eighth inch in length and brown m 
color. The beetles appear often before the blossoms open, and as they feed on the 
leaves, it is possible to poison by spraying at that time. As soon as the blosjoms 
have fallen the spraying should be repeated, and another application is often advis- 
able, especially in rainy seasons or when the curculio are numerous. Formula for 
spraying: Slack 2 pounds of fresh lime and mix thoroughly with i pound of pure 
Paris green in 150 gallons of water. For most purposes it is desirable to combine 

Let us demand reserves of forests for future generations. 



Greening^s 20th Ce ntury Fruit Groivers^ and Landscapers' Guide, 2 9 




THE FLYER "BAB," PROPERTY OF CHAS. E. GREENING. 



the Paris green with Bordeaux mixture. Keep the water and poison constcintly 
stirred. Apply thoroughly. Jarring the trees in the early mc-ning and catching the 
beetles upon sheets spread on the ground, is also an old and effectual remedy. 

CURRANT AND GOOSEBERRY WORMS.— Spray with Paris green, i 
ounce in 15 gallons of water, with a little lime, as soon as the worms appear. For 
the second brood use powdered hellebore, and later pyrethrum, if necessary. 

BORERS. — Nearly all fruit trees are subject to the attack of borers in the 
trunk near the ground. Examine the trees during October by scraping the soil back 
from the trunks to a depth of three inches. If borers are found, destroy them ^vith 
a steel wire or dig them out with a knife. Peach and other trees, especially subject 
to attack, should be again examined in May or June. 

CANKER-WORMS. — Apple orchards, elm and other trees are often defo- 
liated and their growing and fruiting prevented by this insect. When full grown 
they are about one inch long, and of a light green color, and from their appearance 
when crawling are often called inch- or span-worms. They often co.nsume all of the 
green portions of the leaves, only midribs remaining, and the trees have the appear- 
ance of having been scorched with fire. Remedy: Spray thoroughly with the Pari.' 
green mixture just before the blossoms open, and again as soon as the fruit has set. 
In rainy seasons several applications may be desirable. While small the worms are 
readily killed, but if the spraying is delayed until the worms are nearly grown, a 
more thorough application of the poison than usual is necessary. A band of stickv 
material, such as fly-paper, if wound around the trunks to act as a trap for catching 
the worms when they emerge from the ground in the early summer and begin to 
travel up the tree in search of food and to deposit their eggs, is also a splendid 
remedy. 

SLUGS. — These are small, slimy insects about one-half inch long, that eat the 
lining off the leaves of cherry, pear, plum and quince trees. There are usually two 
broods, which may readily be destroyed by throwing dry road-dust, slacked lime or 
ashes over the trees, or they may be sprayed with the Paris green or Bordeaux 
mixture. 

t'EAR BLIGHT.— This disease causes the 
leaves and twigs to turn black, and it may be 
spread all along the branches until the entire 
tree is involved. The remedy is the removal of 
the affected portions as soon as the disease is 
detected. We also recommend using the Califor- 

nia tree-wash, and scraping the bark, as herein 

described under the heading of "The Pear Or- 
chard." Also use the sulphate of copper mixture as directed. 

Beautify the home in its immediate surroundings. 



Diseases of Fruit 

Trees and 
Their Remedies 



» 



30 Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Grcywers* and Landscapers*^ Guide* 





GREENING'S ADVERTISING WAGON. 

Few people realize the vast proportions of our advertising. Our claim of being the largest adver- 
tisers among nurserymen in the world is fully justified. Above is shown one of our advertising wagons, 
fully equipped for painting our signs on large buildings throughout the country. Four expert artists 
accompany each wagon. Each wagon carries an abundant supply of Greening's literature, such as cat- 
alogues, pamphlets, Horticulturists, etc., all of which is distributed en route as they travel through the 
country. 



THE APPLE AND QUINCE BLIGHT.— This is a form known as twig blight, 
often attacking the young growth upon apple and quince trees. The removal of the 
affected portions is the only remedy, but we would advise a thorough application 
of the Bordeaux mixture in every case of blight of this nature. 

PEACH-LEAF CURL. — This is a fungous disease which causes the leaves 
to thicken, curl and fall ofif. The disease is most troublesome when the weather in 
May is cold and wet. Remedy: Spray the trees early in the spring before sap flows, 
with a solution of copper sulphate, using 2 pounds in 50 gallons of water. Spray 
thoroughly so as to cover every bud. This remedy has proven very effectual. 

PEACH YELLOWS AND LITTLE PEACH.— These diseases are very con- 
tagious, and the only method of sabring orchards is the prompt removal of the af- 
fected trees. 

SHOT-HOLE FUNGUS, OR LEAF BLIGHT.— This disease is the most in- 
jurious to the plum of the European varieties. It also affects the cherry, 
currant and gooseberry. Brown spots appear on the leaf, causing the injured por- 
tions to drop out, making round holes in the leaf, and finally causing the foliage to 
drop, long before the growing season is over. This check causes the tree to ripen 
its wood, and a little later in the season they begin to throw out new foliage, which 
in many cases proves fatal to the tree. Remedy: Spray with a solution of copper 
sulphate, using 2 pounds in 50 gallons of water, early in the spring before the sap 
begins to flow. Later on the Bordeaux mixture may be applied several times during 
the growing season. 

BROWN ROT OF STONE FRUITS.— This is a rot affecting the fruit just 
before it begins to turn, and often destroys the entire crop. Warm, wet and muggy 
weather aids the disease in the germination of the spores of the fungus. Remedy: 
Spray with the copper sulphate solution early in the spring before sap flows, and 
continue to spray with the Bordeaux mixture every three or four weeks up to the 
time the fruit begins to color, the last spraying being with a weak solution of copper 
sulphate, containing about i pound in 150 gallons of water. 

APPLE SCAB. — Use Bordeaux mixture every- four weeks after the fruit has 
formed on the trees. Three applications are sufficient. 

Trees, shrubbery, flowers and sunshine, fill the heart with joy. 



Greening's 20ih Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapets' Guide, 31 




RESIDENCE OF CHARLES E. GREENING. 

In architecture this building is after the modern Knglish type. It has a frontage of seventy-five 
feet and extends sixty-five feet to tlie rear. The interior is finished in selected polished Tennes- 
see quartered white oak; French plate glass, conservatory, billiard parlor, fine library and private gas 
plant, a modern house with everything that will add to comfort and pleasure. An ideal home, amid 
charming groups of Spirea Van Houtii, stately maples, beautiful shrubbery and climbers. 



11 Spraying Formulas 



BORDEAUX MIXTURE. — Five pounds 
copper sulphate, 5 pounds stone lime, 50 gallons 
of water. Dissolve the copper sulphate by sus- 
pending it in a basket, so that it will hang just below the surface of the water. A 
gallon of water will readily dissolve a pound of copper sulphate. In another vessel 
slack the lime, — which should be fresh, — in eight gallons of hot water, stirring and 
adding cold water enough to keep the lime from burning. After the latter solution 
has cooled, slowly turn it into the copper sulphate solution and add enough water 
to make 50 gallons all told. This, when all is thoroughly mixed and carefully 
strained, is ready for use. The use of lime with this mixture is of the greatest 
importance, and we would rather advise a little surplus, so as to make sure of there 
being enough. For late spraying, in using this mixture, just before fruit begins to 
color, reduce the amount of lime and copper sulphate, in order to preserve the color 
of the fruit. 

COPPER SULPHATE MIXTURE.— Dissolve i pound of copper sulphate in 
25 gallons of water. This solution is only to be used in the spring, before the sap 
begins to flow. Do not apply it to foliage. 

KEROSENE EMULSION. -One gallon kerosene oil, i pound of hard soap, 
and IS gallons of water. Dissolve the soap in 2 gallons of water, add the kerosene 
and churn thoroughly together, until it becomes a thick, creamy mass. When ready 
for use, add the remainder of the water. This mixture will answer for nearly all 
plants, but for trees infested with plant-lice, it will be advisable to use 10 quarts 
of water to one of kerosene during the summer. 

PARIS GREEN MIXTURE.— Use i pound of pure Paris green in 150 gallons 
of water. Add to this 2 pounds of well slacked lime. Strain carefully before using. 
For most purposes, we would advise combining the Paris green with Bordeaux 
mixture, in which case the extra 2 pounds of lime mentioned ruay be left out, on 
account of the lime contained in the Bordeaux mixture. 

WHALE-OIL SOAP MIXTURE.— This mixture may be used for aphis and 
plant-lice during the summer season, at the rate of i pound of the whale-oil soap in 
3 to 5 gallons of water. 

Language of the flowers — "Kiss me over the garden gate." 



32 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Grcnuers' and Landscapers' Guide, 



Prominent Horticultural Societies 
JffVisitin^ Greening's NurseriesJ^ 




Over 500 prominent Horticulturists who visited our Nurseries in 1898, bringing their own band. 




lyUcas County Horticultural Society; Lucas County Floricultural Society; Lenawee County Horti- 
cultural Society and the Civic Improvement Society of Monroe, Mich., visiting our nurseries 

June 19th, 1902. 




The Michigan State Horticultural Society visiting Greening Bros.' Nurseries Oct. 8, 1901. 
The three groups above shown are photographs taken on our grounds and represent gatherings of 
Horticultural Societies who came for the purpose of visiting and inspecting our Nurseries, seeing and 
admiring the beautiful and expensive improvements such as can only be found on our grounds. What 
they saw is expressed in the remarks made by some of the leading members of the society during and 
after the tour through the Nurseries. 



HERE IS WHAT THEY SAID. 

"I never believed these Nurseries were so extensive."-' — "The healthiest and smoothest trees I 
have ever seen." — "What perfection of detail on every hand." — "Such rich and glossy foliage." — "What 
a grand invention, the Steam Tree Digger — such fine roots I never saw." "What wonderful progress 
these people have made." — "What immense quantities of trees, extending for miles." — "There is no 
evidence of any disease or injurious insects." — "If I were to buy thousands of trees I would get them 
from this Nursery." — "I never heard of any yellows in this section," says Prof. Taft. "These people 
are certainly among the most successful Nurserymen in this country."- — "The nature of that soil and the 
way it is prepared can only produce the very best trees; not a weed to be seen on these extensive 
grounds covering over 700 acres." — "What elegant and costly buildings and beautiful parks." — "I shall 
never forget this trip; it has been one of the greatest enjoyments of my life to visit these grounds." 
— "All that is represented in their catalogue and more too." — "They deserve success and are getting 
it." — Etc., etc. 

Some of these visitors, to whom we respectfully refer the public: President R. M. Kellogg, Three 
Rivers, Mich. Secretary C. K. Bassett, Fennville; Mich. Prof. L. R. Taft, Agr. College, Mich., Sec. 
Ohio H. S.— W. W. Farnsworth, Waterville, O. C. J. Monroe, South Haven, Mich. L. B. Rice, Port 
Huron, Mich. C. B. Welch, Douglas, Mich. Prof. tj. P. Hedrick, Agr. College, Mich., etc. 

From a fifty-acre orchard R. Morrill received $30,000 for one crop. Does it pay? 




THE OLD WAY OF DIGGEVG TREES. 

An every-day scene in digging time under th^ old method of digging trees with spades. The 
men have succeeded in lifting the tree, with a mighty effort so frequently necessary to pull the tree, 
but alas! the tree being rent from the ground with spade and force of muscle, the roots are badly 
broken and bruised and it will be seen that the man pulling the tree has lost his equilibrium at a crit- 
ical moment. Thousands of planters will hail with delight the advent of modern tree digging. There 
can be no disappointment in planting our steam dug trees, as all the roots are intact and uninjured, 
not bruised, broken or crushed as is the case under the old method. Results — smiling patrons, more 
business, better orchards. 



(ft. 



INDEX 



^ 
^ 



Banner Peach, Block of 6 

Beautifying the Surroundings of a 

Home, Treatise on 23-26 

Best Trees to Plant 2 

Bordeaux Mixture .' 31 

Borers 11-29 

Care Before Planting 3 

Copper Sulphate Mixture 31 

Cover Crop 9 

Crops to Grow in an Orchard 9 

Cultivation of Orchard 9 

Currants and Gooseberries 17 

Diseases and Remedies 29-30 

Distances for Planting 3 

Dwarf Pear 13 

Greening's Horticultural Gardens 4 

Healing Bruised Trees 11 

Heeling in Before Planting 5 

How to Make Trees Bear 11 

Implements to Use 9 

Insects and Remedies 27-29 

Kerosene Emulsion 31 

Manuring 10 

Maple Avenue 2 

Maples, Norway 5 

Marketing Fruit, Treatise on 19-23 

Marketing, Hints on 19 

Model Orchard i 



Number Trees to Acre 3 

Orchard and Small Fruits, Treatise 

on 9-18 

Paris Green Mixture 31 

Planting Board, The - 6 

Planting Square 4 

Planting Trees, Plants, etc 6-9 

Practical Hints 9 

Pruning Grape Vines 16 

Pruning Tools 12 

Raspberries and Blackberries 17 

Root Pruning before Planting 3 

Selecting Site for Orchard i 

Soil Preparation for Orchard i 

Spraying Insects and Diseases, Treat- 
ise on 27 

Spraying Formulas 31 

Staking Out the Orchard 5 

Strawberries 18 

Thinning Fruit 11 

Treatise on Marketing Fruit 19 

Treatise on Transplanting, etc i 

Tree Wash 10 

Varieties to Plant 2 

Vineyard . . 15 

Whale Oil Soap Mixture 31 

When to Prune Orchard 12 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




mm^^ OF CONGRESS 




Hollinger Coip. 
pH8.5 



